ASSIGMENT ON PARSI FOODS

CHERRAAN'S ARTS SCIENCE COLLEGE (Catering Science &Hotel Management)-2003-2006

AN ASSIGMENT ON PARSI FOODS

INTROUDCTION

The history of the Parsi goes back to the dawn of civilization. The followers of ZARATHUSTRA, They claim Airyana Vaegah (the cradle of the Aryans) as their primitive home.

Fire, their sacred symbol, was discovered by one of their earliest known kings, Haoshyangah of the Pishdadian period.

During the reign of King Yima or Jamshed, the population of this band of fire worshippers had increased to such an extent that they began to migrate southwards, towards the sun, and eventually settled in the land they called as iran, after Airyana.

King Yima selected the vernal equinox as the begining of the new year. This day, MARCH 21 , is called Navroz. This is also celebrated also by Iranian Zoroastrians, Iranian and Afghani Muslims, and Kashmiris.

Tradition also points to king Yima as the discoverer of wine, liquor and hoama, correspnding to soama of the Vedic Aryans. It is difficult to say when the final split took place into two groups-those who settled in Iran and those who migrated to India. Common referances from Iranian and Indian books suggest Afghanistan as the last stage of the southern journey, when the Aryans camped together.

Philosophers from all over the world visited Iran and it became the meeting point of east and west. The Iranian influence in thought, culture and literature was felt all over the then civilized world, and the Zoroastrianism has enriched and influenced the great religions of Judaism, Christianity and Islam.

Food habits such as the use of rose essence and nuts, preparation of preserved fruits, dolmas, grilled food and sweets like Baklavas spread far and wide.

The Zoroastrian religion is a 'happy' religion, beleiving in good livin, hard work, enjoyment of life and charity - irrespective of race or creed. It' s motto is Humata, Hukhta, Havarshta (good thoughts, good words and good deeds). Sacrifices and martyrdom are discouraged. Priests and laity are encouraged to marry and have children and the childless are encouraged to adopt. There is no pressure to distance oneself from the family and life. Infact life is lived to the full-enjoying the good things, fighting wrongs, and overcoming temptations and hardships.

There are very few taboos, and those that exist are more for health reasons. There are four days of paraji (abstinence) in a month when Parsis are expected to abstain from meat. Meat is not eaten during the 11^th month probably because this is the lambing season. Fish and eggs may be eazten on such days. Meat is not eaten for 3 days after the death of a near one, as the death of a person affects the digestion. The fast is broken on the 4^th day with Dhansakh which is why it is not made on an auspicious occasion.

Wine and alcohol, drunk in moderation are acceptable, and were used to toast the king in ancient times. The exhilarating drink hoama made by pounding the twigs of the Ephedra plant and extracting the juice was a consecrated drink and used in yasna ceremony. Wine was given to a woman after the birth of a still born child to give her strength. A kutli or small mug of wine is a part of many small ceremonies like satum and jashan.

During the 1300 years that the parsis have lived in India, they have assimilated the various influence with which they have come into contact to develop their own distinctive cuisine. Parsi curry is a typical example of the combination of the influence of Iran (nuts) and Gujrat and Maharashtra (coconut and spices). Trade ties with the British introduced them to western cuisine from which they have adopted many dishes and made them typically their own.

The coconut, fish and rice as symbols of plenty are taken from India and no Parsi feast is considered complete without these items. The pomegrenate as a symbol of fertility, and the dates symbolyzing the tree of life are remnants of the Iranian influence on their ceremonies and eating habits. The pomegrenate leaf is eaten by a person having the nahn or religious bath.

The Iranian influences is seen in the meat and ckicken dishes cooked with vegetables-potatoes, okra, spinach and green peas being the most popular; in the use of nuts and rose water; and the preparation of the pulas, biryanis and mughlai dishes.

Dhansakh, the best known Parsi dish has probably evolved from khoreste esfannaj, a dish cooked with meat, lentils and spinach. As tastes change, spices were added to the dish to make it what it is today. The flavour of rose water in most Parsi sweets - ravo, sev, falooda and in their murambas and sherbets, has its origin in Iran. The halvas and murambas made in India, the Middle East, Turkey and Greece have all been influenced by Iran.

Many pickles and chutneys are adapted from the western coast. Exceptions which are typically Parsi are lagan nu achar, meva nu achar, gokeri nu achar, gharab, bafenu, and the tomato and mango chutneys. The roylis and puris made from wheat flour, millet or milo are adapted from Gujrat, as also most of the tea time snacks such as bhajias, patrel, bhel puri, sev and choora. Dishes like bhakras (a type of fried scone), and sadhnas (steamed rice pancakes), both made with toddy are typically Parsi.

The dals and vegetable preparation are also Gujrati or Maharashtrian based.

Most fish dishes are typically Parsi, except perhaps for the masala ni tareli machhi. The famed patra ni machhi uses a delightful adaptation of the cocnut chutney of this region. The sas ni machhi is the creation of the Parsi housewife. The different fish patias (thick sweet and sour curries) were created in the different regions and towns of Gujrat. The famous tarapori patio made with sookha boomla (dried Bombay duck) is the speciality of the Parsis of Tarapore.

The ancient city of Surat is famous for its textiles. Foodwise, it is renouned for its different types of biscuits. The city is also known of its light cream cheese made in baskets.

In the early and mid-twentieth century, most affluent Parsi homes had

Goan cooks, butlers and ayahs. Goan fish curry was a household name. The cury was eaten with parboiled rice and sometimes fried Bombay duck was added to the curry. It has now become as much a part of Parsi cuisine as it is of Goan cuisine.

The cuisine was further influenced by the British, when the Parsis came into contact with them. Slow assimilation of English dishes started taking place and the results were sas (sauce), custer (custard), estew (stew), and the dhai and masala roasts.

Parsis celebrate all the festivals of India, the most popular being Diwali, Christmas and ld, with all traditional food that goes with them.

The average Parsi loves his food. Some have an excellent palate for different foods and are true gourmands.

The Parsis have adjusted to the ways of their adopted land and mingled with the people, respecting their ways of life, while maintaining their own identity and remaining faithful to their religion and both continue to burn brightly.

RECIPES

Much has been said and more has to come, about the traditional and not so traditional dishes of Parsis. However there are some that are unusual by any standards. Among the curries, some unusual ones are falsa ni curry. It is made from small sweet and sour berries. Cutlet ni curry is made with cutlets instead of meat pieces.

Uncommon curries to eat with uncommon khichdi are ones made with cabbage, raw mangoes, kokum (dried Indian sour plums), mince and gor-amli (jaggery and tamarind).

Some meat and chicken dishes have the most unusual combinations, which may not suit any but the Parsi palate. Chicken may be cooked with candied sweet potatoes, gooseberries, raw and ripe papaya, dried apricot and peaches- the latter two would be acceptable to the western palate. Dhodi no dumbo (pumpkin stuffed with meat) is a most unusual and delightful party dish.

As vegetables are not a high priority in Parsi cuisine, not much can be said about them, but drumsticks cooked in toddy or kantolas, a round, spiky bitterish vegetable, cooked with jaggery are some specialities.

A typical Parsi soup of the days gone by is called Tari ma tarkari no soup, even though it is not a vegetable soup and has pieces of meat in it. The fact is that it has a lot more vegetable than meat and is thus called vegetable soup !! It contains potatoes, onions, sweet potatoes, yam, carrots, green peas, mint, celery and parsley and some meat. It is cooked with toddy till the meat is done.

Bhajias, or pakoras as they are called in the north, are popular throughout India. These are usually made with different vegetables or paneer. But the Parsis make it with custer, brains, kutto (tiny shrimps), prawns, chicken, mince and even tinned salmon !!

There are some intresting variations with puris. Some of them are sweet and some are stuffed- with crabs, oysters, prawns, and savoury mince. There are flaky puris, yeasted puris and some made with a mixture of gram and rice flour.

Murambas are made not only with the common mango, pear and pumpkin, but also with potatoes as well. Achars are made with chunks of preserved mangoes, peel of oranges and sweet lime and chutneys made with sliced mango preserve.

Parsis also make chilly wine and rose flavoured brandy. The wine is made by steeping chillies in it for a long time. Similarly, the bottle for brandy is filled three quarters with fresh rose petals and then brandy is filled in that bottle. It is kept for a minimum of 15 days before using it.

NARIEL NA DOODH MA PAPETA NE SEKTANI SING

(POTATOES AND DRUMSTICKS COOKED IN COCONUT MILK)

8 potatoes, peeled and quartered

8-10 drumsticks, cut into 3" pieces

2 onions finely chopped

2 tomatoes, chopped (optional)

4-5 green chillies, slit

21/2 inch piece of ginger, ground

1 large pod garlic, ground

1 tsp turmeric powder

2-3 tsp cumin powder

1 tbsp mixed cinnamon, clove, cardamom

2 cups coconut milk

3 tbsp ghee

salt to taste

METHOD

Heat fat in a pan and fry onions with whole spices till onions are light brown. Add half cup of water and cook till onions are mushy and water has evaporated. Add ginger, garlic, turmeric, cumin pwd and salt and saute for 1-2 minutes. Add tomatoes and continue to saute. Add chillies and potatoes and cook on low heat till 3/4 done. Add drumsticks and coconut milk and simmer till vegetables are done and gravy is thick.

KHATTU MEETHU ESTEW

(SWEET AND SOUR STEW)

250g peas with pods, shelled

150g french beans, diced

300g pickling onions, peeled

4 carrots, peeled and diced

300g cauliflower, cut into florets (optional)

300g baby potatoes, peeled

300g yam, peeled and diced

2 sweet potatoes, peeled and diced

3 onions, sliced

3 tnsp vinegar

2 tbsp sugar

salt to taste

oil for frying

chop finely

3 tomatoes

3-4 green chillies

4 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped

1/2 bunch mint leaves

2 inch piece ginger

1 pod garlic

METHOD

Heat oil and lightly shallow fry all vegetables individually except sliced onions and finely chopped ingredients. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a pan and fry slived onions till light brown. Add finely chopped ingredients and tomatoes and simmer for 3-4 minutes. Add fried vegetables and mix well. Add vinegar, sugar and salt and simmer for another 5 minutes.

TARELI MACHHI

(FRIED FISH)

6 large slices of fish 1/2" thick

1 tsp turmeric powder

1 tsp chilly powder

1 tsp cumin powder (optional)

juice of 1 lime

salt to taste

sesame seed oil for frying

METHOD

Wash fish. Mix all other ingredients together except oil and rub into the fish. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes. Heat oil in a frying pan till hot. Add fish and lower heat. Cook till the underside is crisp. Turn pieces over and cook other isde. Serve immediately with a slice of lime.

PATRA NI MACHHI

(FISH IN BANANA LEAVES)

12 Pieces of pomfret, sliced darne

3 tbsp oil

4-5 medium sized banana leaves

salt to taste

coconut chutney made by grinding

1 coconut, grated

6 green chillies, seeded

6 tbsp chopped corriander leaves

1 tbsp chopped mint leaves

1 1/2 inch piece ginger

1 1/2 pods garlic

1/2 tsp turmeric powder

1 tsp cumin powder

2 no lime juice

pinch of sugar

salt to taste

METHOD

Add oil to the chutney. Soften banana leaves by holding them over a low fire. Cut banana leaves into 12 large pieces, removing the central stem. Spread chutney on both sides of the fish pieces. Wrap each piece of fish in the banana leaf like a parcel. Tie each parcel with a thread. Steam the parcels for 20 minutes and serve as it is.

BHEEDA MA MURGHI

(SAVOURY CHICKEN WITH OKRA)

METHOD

Heat fat and fry onions and whole spices till light brown. Add half a cup of water and simmer till onions become mushy and water has evaporated. Add ginger, garlic, turmeric, cumin pwd and salt and saute for 1-2 minutes. Add tomatoes and chicken and continue to saute till chicken is light brown. Add chillies and one cup f water. Cover and simmer till the chicken is cooked and the gravy becomes thick. Deep fry the okra and garnish the dish with it.

BATERO

(meat stewed in toddy)

1 1/2 kg lamb shoulder, diced

1 ltr lightly fermented toddy or beer

salt to taste

2 tbsp ghess

grind together

2 2/1 inch ginger

2 pods garlic

2 tsp turmeric pwd

4 tsp chilly pwd

1 tsp chumin seeds

1 tbsp black pepper corns

METHOD

Pierce meat with a fork and mix with ground spices and salt. Add enough toddy to mix well and cover the meat. Leave to marinate for 2-3 hours, or leave overnight in the refrigerator. Bring back to room temp before cooking. Heat fat in a pan and fry meat till brown. Lower geat and add remaining toddy. Cover and simmer till meat has cooked.

MUG NIDAR

(husked green beans)

1 1/4 cups husked green beans(moong)

1 tsp turmeric pwd

salt to taste

chop for dal mixture

2 tomatoes

4 green chillies

1 tsp corriander leaves

vaghar (seasoning)

2 tbsp cumin seeds

1 pod garlic, chopped

2 tbsp ghee

METHOD

Wash dal and place in a pan with water to cover by one inch. Add green chillies and turmeric pwd and bring to boil. Skim and simmer till done. Mash the dal. Add remaining ingredients except seasoning and simmer for 10 minutes. Heat ghee in a small pan and add seasoning ingredients. Fry and pour over dal just before serving.

DHAN SAKH

For sakh mixture

1 kg lamb

1 cup arhar dal

3/4 cup moong dal

3/4 cup masoor dal

3/4 cup chana dal

3/4 cup husked field beans (val)

1 tsp turmeric

1 tsp red chilly pwd

1 tbsp cumin pwd

2 tbsp corriander pwd

3 tbsp dhansakh masala pwd

salt to taste

50g ghee

chop for dal mixture

2 potaloes

2 tomatoes

4-6 green chillies

2 tbsp corriander leaves

1 tbsp mint leaves

200g ripe pumpkin

200g marrow

1 medium sized aubergine

8 bunches fenugreek leaves

2-3 spring onion

2 inch ginger

1 pod garlic

spices (1)

3 large onions sliced

1 inch cinnamon

4-6 broken cloves

4-6 green cardamom

2 star anise

spices (2)

mix together to form paste

1 tsp turmeric pwd

chilly pwd t taste

1 tbsp cumin pwd

2 tbsp corriander pwd

2 tbsp dhan sakh masala

1 tbsp ginger paste

1 tbsp garlic paste

chop very finely

2-3 tomatoes

1 tbsp corriander leaves

2-3 sprigs mint leaves

3-4 sprigs curry leaves

4 bunches fenugreek leaves

doru

1/2 cup tamarind extract

1 tbsp jaggery

1-2no lime juice

METHOD

Mix fenugreek leaves with half tsp salt and leave for 20 minutes. Squeeze out water to remove bitterness from leaves. Wash dals well and mix with meat and chopped ingredients for dal mixture and meat. Put intoa pan with water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to boil and reduce heat. Simmer till meat is tender. Remove meat from mixture and strain mixture through collander. Put meat back into the coarse puree. Heat ghee in a large pan and fry spices (1) till onions are brown. Add spices (2) and fry for 1-2 minutes, adding a little water, if required. Add chopped ingredients and saute for 1-2 minutes. Add dal mixture, and mix well to incorporate all ingredients. Simmer on low heat for 10-15 minutes, adding a little water, if too thick. Mix ingredients for doru, strain and add to dal mixture. Serve with brown rice (dhan), kababs etc.

SEV

(vermicelli)

125g fine vermicelli

2-3 tsp butter

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

3/4 cup milk

2 tbsp cream

1 tbsp rose water

2 tbsp almonds, slivered

2 tbsp sultanas

1 tsp powdered cardamom and nutmeg

METHOD

Melt butter in a pan with a dash of oil and lightly fry vermicelli, till light brown. Keep aside. Make a sugar syrup with sugar, water and milk. Add vermicelli and simmer till all liquid has evaporated. Add cream and rose water and mix well. Garnish it with almonds, sultanas and powdered spices.

SANTRA NI KHEER

(milk pudding with oranges)

1 It full cream milk

6 tbsp castor sugar

4 oranges

pinch of salt

METHOD

Cook milk till it reduces to half and chill it. Peel and flake oranges, collecting any juice that may run out. Dissolve sugar in orange juice and cool. Add sugar and orange flakes to chilled milk and serve.

PARSI MENU

GOR AMLI IN CACHUMBAR

KHORA NO MURAMBO

COLUMNU ACCHAR

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· RAS CHAWAL

· PARSI PATREL

· DHOKLA

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· KOTHMIR PER EDA

· PATHRANI MACHHI

· COOTOE

· COLMI NO PATIO

· DHANSAK

· OOBARYU

· SALI MA MARGHI

· KAVAB

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· LAGANSALA STEM

· COCOM KADHI

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· MAAM NI KHRI POORI

· COLMI NO PALAO

· CHAWAL

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· SEV AUDH

· FALLODA SEV