KUMQUAT DRESSING

SAIGON SPECIAL

is the best rice in Saigon

Com sen is rice (com) steamed with fresh lotus seeds (sen) and mixed with small shreds of pork. It's served at Ngu Vien Restaurant in District 3. I've never seen this rice served anywhere else, but I'm sure if you look hard enough it'll turn up somewhere else in this town. It comes wrapped in a lotus leaf, always with a lotus flower attached. It's quite the most dainty rice dish you're ever likely to find in Saigon. Com sen just pips my other fave rice dish from this shack Com dua, or rice cooked inside a coconut. Com dua arrives on the table in a slightly charred coconut shell. In among the rice are some finely chopped vegetables and pork, but no lotus seeds.

I don't care for the pork in Com sen, it's the combination of textures of the barely flavoured lotus seeds and the steamed rice that does it for me. Incredibly simple, slick to the eye and a meal in itself. I'm a bit of a heathen and I find the tiniest splash of chilli and garlic infused soy sauce in each bowl full gives this stupendous rice in a leaf dish a nice little boot out of the lilly pond.

Saucy Saigon

Just when you think you've learnt the lot, you err... learn something more. I got an invite to Ngu Vien restaurant for lunch yesterday. We dug deep into the Hue end of the menu, and only the Hue end. One of the dishes that arrived was thebanh uot tom chay you see above. It's quite different and a whole lot better than a similar dish called banh uot nong commonly found on the street. But the interest for me doesn't lie so much in the light white rice flour floppies sprinkled in 'prawn dust'. No, it's in that bowl on the left. The Ngu Vien banh uot tom chay dip is made from water that has been used to cook prawns. It is then mixed with nuoc mam (fish sauce), prawn dust, sugar and lemon. It's then boiled and left to cool. This dip, I am told, is unique to this dish. And... it's really bloody good.

That's reminds me of words I said yesterday that I never thought I would ever utter, "I hope Germany win tonight". Likewise, I never thought I'd say the rice flour end of the Hue food spectrum was ever any good, let alone bloody good, but it clearly is. A case of Banh uot tom chay uber alles or sommit.

Ngu Vien Part 4

A few quick additions to our ongoing journey through the Ngu Vien restaurant menu. Above we have a Vietnamese classic, Chao tom (Shrimp paste on sugar cane) served with sliced starfruit, cucumber, lettuce and green banana. There's a couple of side dishes along for the ride too; rice paper to stuff your hacked upChao tom inside and Bun (cold vermicelli noodles). You'll also get a nuoc mam(fish sauce) dip. This is one of the better versions of this Chao tom I've found. And only 22,000VD for one. You can also gnaw the sugarcane when you're done with the meat. Neat. The Chao tom at Quan An Ngon in District 1 comes with "angel" bun. Also neat.

This is billed as Ca Thu Chien (Fried Mackerel). It's not a mackerel, it's a firm fleshy fish with a light flour batter fried within range of crispiness, but no further. Scrummy and simple. Dip it in the nuoc mam. Whenever I order food at Ngu Vien I always end up with two or three different varieties of fish sauce on the table. Difficult to keep track of which one should go with which dish... Ca Thu Chiengoes for 39,000VD.

Last up is Goi va (Fig fruit salad served with sesame rice cakes) This is very similar to the jackfruit salad we covered during our last visit to this restaurant at 40 Ky Dong Street in District 3. On reflection, I'd say this was even better than the jackfruit. No mean feat. It's a warm salad with shredded pork mingling with the fig fruit. The fig fruit is softer than the jackfruit version, although it does lack that surreal jackfruit texture we discussed before. The shoddy snap doesn't do this justice. Highly recommended and'll set you back 42,000VD. For previous Ngu Vien reviews, go to

Ngu Vien Part III

I'm still ploughing my way, with great pleasure, through the menu at Ngu Vien. We've sat down for a stuffing at this table before here and here. The muzak-music selection at Ngu Vien sunk to a new low on this visit. In my mind's eye the musicians are part of a kidnapped band forced to grind through the most turgid of cellophane symphonies on the whim of a Kim-Jong-Il-alike, brains dulled day-in-day-out by the din. I can cope with Hell's backing band (just...) as we've yet to find a total bummer on the menu. And tonight is no different. We'll begin with the weakest link, pictured above, Ca Dieu Hung Hap Hanh (Steamed Sea bass with spring onions) 69,000VD. It was the dreariest dish, but it was still decent. Don't think it was actually sea bass, but what the hell, it was fresh enough, bags of greens sitting atop a metal plate on a paraffin flame. There's enough fish for two at a push. And with rice and greens, you'd be set for the evening. But, we needed more. Much more.

Ngu Vien does two great salads, one with grapefruit and the one above, Goi Mit(Jackfruit Salad served with sesame rice cakes) 39,000VD. Be careful not to dollop all the nuoc mam (fish sauce) that comes with this dish on top of the jackfruit - you'll swallow more salt than the North Sea if you do. What makes this a winner is the subtle flavour and texture of the jackfruit. Half melting, half chewy. Couple that combo with the crisp crunch of the sesame cracker and it's a blindin' must try.

Next up is Muc

Nuong Sate (Grilled Squid with Sate) 57,000VD. Squid is a risk in some Saigon restaurants, not here. It's as succulent as it looks in the snap above. Just as important is the sate. This is often a disaster in Vietnam, but again Ngu Vien come up with the right balance of sweetness and spicy zip. Good stuff.

Last up Canh Bo Nau Khe (Beef soup with carambola) 31,000VD. This is a sour soup, but not too sour. The carambola (or star fruit) is the main flavour enhancer adding that sourness. The beef's no great shakes, but the soup juice over rice with a smidgen of star fruit was a super end to yet another stuffing at Ngu Vien. View the

Ngu Vien Part II

Since I last blogged by Ngu Vien at 40 Ky Dong street in District 3 I've returned three or four times and had delivery to Pieman towers the same amount. I'm still working through their voluminous menu, but I thought it might be useful to round up a few new found faves. First up is the chap above, Chinh Nuong La Chanh(Grilled eel with lemon juice) 75,000VD. It's simply slices of fresh eel (they have live eels in the aquarium near the entrance) grilled to spectacular succulence with the heavy scent of lemon juice and charred lemon leaves. The flesh is soft, just avoid the central bone as it can cause a nasty clunk mid munch if you're not careful. There's a salty, lemon dip too - just in case you haven't had enough citrus. Eat simply with rice.

In the green corner is this sauteed stunna, Bo xoi xao toi (Sauteed spinach with garlic) 18,000VD. They use really fresh spinach here and with the garlic punch it's a vegetarian virtuoso performance from the boys at Ngu Vien. Again, scoff this fella with plain rice, well I do, you do what you want. The other veggie of choice in Vietnam, Rau Muong xao toi (Morning glory with garlic) is equally super, but a bit more work in the toothpick department apres stuffing.

Carnivores who have a penchant for carpaccio will find the Bo Tai Chanh (Rare beef in lemon juice) 35,000VD of interest. Loaded with lemony fizz and garnished with raw onion and strings of red pepper, it's a 'rare' treat. I'm a little wary when it comes to raw dishes in Saigon, but this has never caused any 'consequences' even when delivered to Pieman towers. The heavy duty use of lemon does make this an ulcer unfriendly platter, but if you're not suffering, this is a blinder. Highly recommended.

Last up for this edition of noodlepie meets Ngu Vien (we'll be back for more, don't you worry) is Canh Mung Tui (Malabar nightshade soup) 25,000VD. As I mentioned a few days ago, I'm a big Canh fan, although the spinach in this one is a bit glutinous and gloppy. Like scoffin' a slug. It's earthy stuff and there's plenty of greens in there to keep you regular. However, I'm still ploughing through their Canh menu as I don't think I've hit their sweet soup spot yet. Any tips, lemme know. Dinner for two with drinks came to 185,000VD, about $12.

Neon wonder

Noodlepie is not nuts for neon, but Vietnam is. If you’re not fluoresc-ing out front, inside and everywhere in between, so the theory goes, the scoffers with the coffers can’t see you, won't choose you, won't pay you. Ngu Vien at 40 Ky Dong Street adheres a la mode - it's just as garishly visible as any of the other restaurants in District 3. Further aesthetic punch is provided by the soul-less vibes that flood the half indoor, half outdoor restaurant with muzak-misery from a looped tape spool. It doesn’t look good, it sounds appalling, but Ngu Vien is packed.

The restaura

nt has an extensive menu, it is well-known for its Hue cuisine. There’s a delicacy to the regional dishes of Hue missing in other parts of the country and Ngu Vien serves 28 Hue specialities and there are four Sunday specials. However, a nibble at the nuances of Hue didn’t appeal on this visit as I decided to take a stab at 5 other dishes. First up was the chap above, Goi Rau Muong (“Water morning glory salad”) 33,000VD. Prawns, pork, pepper and peanuts served on a bed of stripped, fresh morning glory and a side dish of light fish sauce – chuck all of this sauce on - it’s a healthy option. The morning glory has a marvelous moorish crunch. It’s not a special dish although it does pack plenty of pleasant ruffage at this spread.

The meat in the meal is hidden away inside that coconut above. This is Bo Tai Nuoc Dua (“Rare beef in coconut”) 35,000VD. It was recommended by the waiter. Tres tender, thin strips of raw beef ‘cook’ in a slightly sweet spiced coconut sauce. There’s always the chew-factor worry when ordering raw or rare beef dishes in Vietnam, but this was excellent. The dish find of the night.

This is the southern standard, Ca Kho To (“Stewed fish Vietnamese style in bowl”) 27,000VD. The sweet caramelized fish sauce floods the clay bowl with its thick juices seeping into the fish flesh. Diners can choose from three kinds of fish - Ca Hu (“Catfish”), Ca Loc (“Snack-head fish” – think they mean Snake-head fish…) and Ca Tre (“Fatten fish”). I prefer the Ca Hu for this dish. I am sure the others work equally well, however I do find the Ca Tre a bit too fatty for this dish. This serving of Ca Kho To was first rate. The sauce is addictive and well worth pouring the remnants over rice for a mashed up baby food hit.

Last up was the Canh (soup). Ngu Vien has an extensive array of Canh on offer. I stongly recommend their Canh Chua Ca, but on this visit I plumped for a Canh-unknown, Canh Mang Ca Thac Lac (“Fish soup with bamboo shoots”) 38,000VD. There’s something about pounded fish lumps/balls that just doesn’t work for pieman and this rather fatty soup comes filled with them. There’s just no taste. And the texture is a turn off. This soup looks great and the bamboo is tasty enough, but I wouldn’t order this again. And with a whole page and a half of Canh on the menu, I won't have to.

The menu is vast; eel, frog, beef, squid, shrimp, crab and cua dinh (that's the kind of tortoise looking tense in the tank near the entrance). There are also six “special” Grouper numbers and seven Lau (steamboat hotpot type fella) dishes on offer. Whether or not you’re a fluorescent-fan or muzak-mad, you won’t come out of blueginger or dissatisfied. With rice and drinks for two persons, this meal came to

choose your favorite dinner menu VIETNAMESE CUISINE

ANTIPASTO SALAD

Antipasto in English means 'before pasta' or 'before your main dish' and is commonly known as starters, something to clear the palate and get the appetite going.

Antipasto is an appetizer usually consisting of an assortment of smoked meats, cheeses, fish and raw vegetables.

Antipasto means " before the meal" pasto is meal, pasta is pasta

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CHICKPEA ANTIPASTO SALAD

Chickpea Antipasto Salad Ingredients

• 2 c. coked, drained chickpeas
• 1 c. cooked artichoke hearts, drained and quartered
• 4 oz. veggie salami (optional)
• 1 red pepper, largely diced
• 1 green pepper, cut into strips
• 1/4 c. black, pitted olives, drained
• 2 T olive oil
• 1 T flax seed oil (or another T of olive oil)
• 2 T balsamic vinegar
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 3 T fresh basil, minced (1 tsp dry)
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp pepper

Chickpea Antipasto Salad Cooking Directions

1. In a salad bowl, combine the chickpeas, artichoke hearts, red and green peppers, (salami) and olives.
2. In a jar with a lid, combine the oils, vinegar, garlic, basil, salt and pepper.
3. Put the lid on the jar, and shake to blend.
4. Add the oil mixture to the veggies.
5. Toss and serve.

This recipe for Chickpea Antipasto Salad takes about 15 minutes to cook and serves 4 to 6 people.

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TORTELLINI ANTIPASTO SALAD

DRESSING: 6 tbsp. oil (olive) 1/4 c. red wine vinegar 2 oz. minced Italian salami 1 tbsp. finely chopped basil 1 tbsp. finely chopped parsley 1 tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese 1 tsp. minced garlic 1/2 tsp. salt Pinch red pepper flakes SALAD: 4 c. spinach leaves 1 pkg. cheese filled tortellini 4 oz. Provolone cheese, cubed 2 jars (6 oz. each) marinated artichoke heats, drained and sliced 3 plum tomatoes, cubed 1/2 c. chopped imported ripe olives Dressing: In jar with tight fitting lid, combine all ingredients; cover and shake vigorously. Line a large salad bowl with spinach leaves. In large bowl toss remaining ingredients with dressing. Spoon into salad bowl. ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

VIETNAMESE SALAD

VIETNAMESE GREEN PAPAYA SALAD

A northern Vietnamese favourite, this salad pairs crunchy julienned strips of firm-fleshed unripe papaya with a sweet and spicy dressing. Look for green papayas at Asian markets or specialty produce markets. The flesh should be firm, not soft or mushy.

This Vietnamese green papaya salad really gives you the taste of the orient. Don’t be put off by the lengthy list of ingredients as the result really is worthwhile. It serves four people.

Vietnamese Green Papaya Salad

Ingredients:

• 750g green papaya
• 4 spring onions, very finely julienned
• Half a white radish, very finely julienned
• 12 leaves of Asian mint
• 12 leaves of Thai basil (or regular basil)
• Half a small bunch of coriander, leaves only
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 2 tbsps dried shrimp or crushed peanuts
• Extra Thai basil and Asian mint leaves, to garnish

For the dressing:

• Quarter of a tsp of shrimp paste
• 2 tbsps boiling water
• 3 tbsps rice vinegar
• 3 tbsps lime juice
• 2 tbsps fish sauce
• 2 tbsps sugar
• 1 tbsp sweet chilli sauce

Method:

1. Finely julienne the papaya and toss with the finely julienned spring onions, white radish, chopped fresh herbs and garlic.
2. To make the dressing, dilute the shrimp paste in 2 tablespoons boiling water, then whisk with all the other dressing ingredients. If the sauce is a little too acidic, add a little extra water as required to dilute the flavour to your taste. Continue whisking until the dressing is well mixed.
3. Toss the dressing through the papaya/vegetable mixture, taking care to disperse the dressing thoroughly. Pile on a plate and sprinkle with peanuts or dried shrimp. Garnish with Thai basil and Asian mint.

This avocado, mango and papaya salad is lovely and fresh and superb served on a hot day. It goes really well with barbecues. The following ingredients serve four.

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VIETNAMESE GREEN PAPAYA SALAD

A refreshing and unusual salad made with shredded green papaya, it stands alone or takes such additions as cooked prawns or beef jerky to turn it in to a main dish.

- 1 large ripe tomato, cut in to wedges.
- 1 green papaya (500 g/1 lb), coarsely grated to yield 3 cups.
- 1 small carrot, coarsely grated to yield 3 cups.
- 1 small carrot, coarsely grated to yield 1 cup.
- 2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves.
- Sprigs of mint leaves, to garnish.

Dressing
- 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice.
- 3 tablespoons fish sauce.
- 1 talespoon sugar.
- 2 cloves garlic, minced.
- 1 finger-length chili, deseeded and sliced.
- 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, dry-roasted for about 10 minutes over low heat until browned.

- Combine the Dressing ingredients in a large bowl and mix until the sugar is dissolved, then add all the other ingredients (except sprigs of mint leaves) and toss well to combine.
- Transfer to a serving platter, garnish with the mint leaves and serve immediately

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Vietnamese Green Papaya Salad with Beef Jerky
Goi Du Du Bo Kho

Vietnamese green papaya salad comes in two guises and one of them features earthy beef jerky and heady Thai basil (hung que). The other version of green papaya salad is southern Viet and has shrimp, pork and rau ram herb; the recipe is in Into the Vietnamese Kitchen. A northern Viet favorite, green papaya salad made with beef jerky includes slivers of smoked liver and on occasion, lung too. In Hanoi's Old Quarter, I recall a little street full of green papaya salad vendors. I’ve never had the lung in salads in the U.S. Both the jerky and liver are a tad chewy, the liver adding a slight minerally quality to the salad. It’s no great shakes. If you lived in Little Saigon, you’d go to the Vietnamese-Chinese jerky store for the beef and the liver. Or you like I did last week. In my kitchen, I omit the liver and the salad is just fine.

To dress Vietnamese green papaya salad, you have two options. One is a fish sauce and lime dressing. The other features soy sauce and vinegar. The former yields a salad that is lighter in taste and appearance that the latter. At places like the Asian Garden Mall food court in Orange County’s Little Saigon, it’s common to see the soy dressing. If you watched the movie, Scent of Green Papaya, the dressing is the fish sauce one. Regardless of your dressing, you can serve the salad pre-dressed or with the dressing on the side. Because the soy dressing turns the pale celadon green papaya a sad brown color, I like to let guests dress their own salad. The recipe below employs the soy sauce dressing.

An important part of this salad is to have the papaya crunchy, and Viet cooks can soak the shredded papaya in a slaked lime-and-water solution. I prefer the old fashioned method of squeezing on the shreds, which renders the papaya dryish so that once the dressing is poured on, the papaya soaks up all the flavors like a sponge. See if you're not familiar with the Southeast Asian ingredient.

Serves 4 to 6

Dressing:
2 tablespoons regular (light) soy sauce
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons or 1 or 2 Thai or serrano chiles, finely chopped

1 green papaya, about 2 pounds
1 teaspoon sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
4 ounces or Asian-style beef jerky, cut into strips with scissors to match papaya pieces (about 1 cup total)
1/4 cup shredded fresh Thai basil leaves

1. To make either dress dressing, in a small bowl, stir together all of the ingredients, stirring until the sugar dissolves. If guests are chile heat sensitive, leave the Sriracha out and serve some on the side. Set the dressing aside to develop the flavors.

2. Peel the papaya with a vegetable peeler and then cut off the stem. Halve the papaya lengthwise and use a spoon to scoop out and discard the seeds. Cut each half lengthwise into quarters, and then use a knife (or grapefruit knife or melon baller) to remove the thin white layer lining the cavity. Using a Japanese Benriner slicer or a food processor fitted with the largest shredder blade, shred the papaya pieces. Aim for thin strands about 1/16 inch thick, no more than 3/16 inch wide, and 2 1/2 to 3 inches long (about the size of the shredded mozzarella you put on a pizza).

3. Put the shredded papaya in a colander, add the sugar and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the salt, and use both hands to massage the sugar and salt vigorously into the papaya. After a few minutes, the papaya will be a little slimy and limp yet still firm. At that point, rinse it under lots of cold running water to remove the salt and sugar.

4. Working in batches, wring out excess moisture from the papaya in a nonterry dish towel: position a mound of the papaya in the center, roll it up in the towel, and then twist the ends in opposite directions to force out the liquid. Do this 3 or 4 times. You want to extract enough water from the papaya yet not completely crush it. Transfer the papaya to a large bowl and fluff it up to release it from its cramped state.

5. Just before serving, add the beef jerky and Thai basil to the green papaya and toss to distribute evenly. At home, I normally pour on about 3/4 of the dressing, toss and taste, adding more dressing as needed. Or, serve the dressing on the side and invite guests to dress their own salad.

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VIETNAMESE LOTUS STEM SALAD

Gỏi Ngó Sen Tôm Thịt – Vietnamese Lotus Stem Salad with Prawns and Pork

Ingredients

400g lotus stem
400g prawns
100g pork neck
1/2 red onion, sliced thinly
1 carrot, julienned
1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoon white vinegar
pinch salt
handful of Vietnamese mint leaves (rau răm), coarsely chopped
handful of mint, coarsely chopped
fried shallot
roughly chopped peanuts
prawn crackers

Method

Prepare the FISH SAUCE DIPPING SAUCE

Softening and pickling the carrot is optional (I prefer mine with less crunch). In a small bowl, add vinegar, sugar and a pinch. Add the julienned carrot and mix well. Set aside.

Cook the pork neck and then slice thinly.

Cook the prawns and de-shell and de-veined (leave tail on prawns for presentation is optional).

Rinse the lotus stem. If lotus stem is not already cut in about 7cm in length then cut them. I prefer the lotus stem in thin strips, so slice the lotus stem 1/2 (or even 1/4) lengthways. Once the lotus stem are sliced, squeeze out the water from the lotus by using a muslin cloth.

Drain the vinegar mixture from the carrot by using a muslin cloth and squeeze out all the water.

In a large bowl, combine lotus root, red onion, carrot, mint leaves, prawns and pork. Give all the ingredients a gentle toss.

Turn out to a serving platter. Garnish with crushed peanuts and fried shallots. Pour some fish sauce dipping sauce onto the salad and serve with prawn crackers.